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Tuesday is market day, where Slavic-, Albanian- and Turkish-speaking villagers bring their wares into this town of 84, people - and wait for the Greeks to come. Grapes cost from dinars in Bitola.
There are 60 dinars to the euro. All farm produce is sold at similar prices. The bazaar is near the center of town, where the streets are choked with vehicles bearing Greek number plates. But it would be no surprise. On the kilometer drive from the border are tobacco farms still planted with the old and now non-commercial Latakia variety that has a strong, oriental aroma, quite different to the Virginia blend we are familiar with.
The same applies to their corn crops, introduced by the Ottomans and which, as historian Mark Mazower says, were the main reason for the demographic explosion in the hilly Balkan hinterland and therefore the relative autonomy they enjoyed. Less than 5 kilometers from Bitola, at ancient Heracleia, Atava Christovska guides us around the ancient ruins and points to a statue of Nemesis.
A kilometer further on in the village of Kravari, there are Greek signs indicating a hairdresser and a dentist. Vassilis Arabatzis said a dentist back home in Kastoria quoted him 3, euros for dental work he needed. In Bitola, the quote was euros.
The talk of the town recently was the purchase by a Greek from Karditsa of a beautiful two-story neoclassical house for , euros. And this in a town where houses are sold for no more than euros per square meters. At the end of the long pedestrian area that passes through the center of town from west to east are two Veropoulos supermarkets, the only major supermarkets in Bitola.